SpeakerTalk

[LWCM]

Finally managed to sort out my "new" 105.1

Ordered the capacitors from Falcon Acoustics and managed to find a pair of T52. I wasnt sure if the distortion from one tweeter was bacause of the caps or a faulty tweeter.

Dismatled the speakers and removed the crossovers to do the recaping.

[img]https://pix.sfly.com/Whd9nA[/img]
https://pix.sfly.com/Whd9nA

[img]https://pix.sfly.com/XyxZfO[/img]
https://pix.sfly.com/XyxZfO

I then tried my best to sand down the cabinets to prepare for painting. This process was a pain as firstly the top of the bass cabinet had some glue and foam residue. Same for the plastic cover of the top cabinet. Secondly the wood was flaking at some parts of the top cabinet especially at areas where the metal grill covers are attached and also at the "window" of the Led lights. Every time I sand it, it flakes more. In the end I applied some super glue to prevent more flaking.

[img]https://pix.sfly.com/meNmOe[/img]
https://pix.sfly.com/meNmOe

[img]https://pix.sfly.com/6o6b-p[/img]
https://pix.sfly.com/6o6b-p

Next was the painting. I used a matt black paint. For the front cover of the bass cabinet I used a gloss laquer and for the rest of the cabinets I used a satin lacquer.

[img]https://pix.sfly.com/3XvhHB[/img]
https://pix.sfly.com/3XvhHB

[img]https://pix.sfly.com/JjE0cS[/img]
https://pix.sfly.com/JjE0cS

Next I also changed the Led lights as one was not working. Fixed back the crossovers and reassembled the cabinets and drivers.

Final results.

[img]https://pix.sfly.com/Xt7SXW[/img]
https://pix.sfly.com/Xt7SXW

Those portions which has flaked off previously I couldn't restore it to original condition so there are some indentations here and there on the top cabinet. I was told I needed to apply epoxy and slowly sand them? Well I was too tired after working on it for a week everyday after work. Maybe another time hahaha.

One thing I need some advice on. After recapping, I have the impression I lost some bass. I only played the speakers for a short while before working it as there was a distortion on one tweeter. But I thought I recalled the bass was stronger then. Any ideas?

Oh, the distortion was gone after the recap so I now have a pair of spare T52

*Somehow I cant attach the pics even when using [img][address][/img] method.

[audiolabtower]

Excellent looking job, always nice to see classic speakers of that age looking good as new. Are the bass cabinets well sealed? Unpowered, pushing the coil of the B300 in gently by hand they should take about 5 seconds to slowly return to centre.

[LWCM]

[audiolabtower]

That might explain any bass difference? Check the baffle sealing foam strip, B300 sealing gasket, internal edges, speaker cable tube glueing, binding post mounting tightness etc etc?

[LWCM]

[audiolabtower]

Try 12in gaskets, or more easily I guess those windows sealing strips with the close cell foam.

[LWCM]

Done. Used the foam tape meant for sealing windows and doors. Viola. Got my bass back

[audiolabtower]

Excellent.

[LWCM]

Has anyone use the sealing tape to ensure airtight seal fornthe mid range? Any effect?

[speakerguru]

[audiolabtower]

One point if you want to be ultra exacting. The bass cabinets originally had a thick layer of black foam on top, up to the level of the veneered sides. This was there to minimise midrange reflections from the B110 interfering with the forward sound. Unfortunately this foam rotted away after 20 years or so. When I refurbished mine I used a thin layer of plywood, just thick enough to accept a small staple, covered it with thick close cell foam, and covered the lot with black speaker cloth. It was pictured in an old thread here

http://www.hifiloudspeakers.info/speakertalk/viewtopic.php?t=1440&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

[LWCM]

I didn’t put back any foam on top. I just put a layer of cork between the the base of the top cabinet and the bass cabinet

[Mind_Drive]